Skin Bleaching Taking the World by Storm
“Skin bleaching is one manifestation of folks trying to get power and privilege aligned with whiteness. It’s not specific in Africa, it’s the way whiteness is positioned all over the world.”
– Yaba Blay, political science assistant professor at North Carolina Central University
Not So Black and White
The desire by many to be lighter skinned is not a new phenomenon and continues to exist because it is so deeply rooted in histories of slavery and eurocentrism. Out of the separation of Black bodies during slavery and multiple generations afterwards spawned modern day colorism, defined as discrimination based on skin color usually in reference to same-race individuals. Skin lightening cannot be properly discussed without considering the impact colorism has had on this issue. Due to eurocentrism, European characteristics have been pushed into the mainstream as the standard of beauty, therefore whiter and lighter skin have been considered, subconsciously or otherwise, to be of a higher standard of beauty. The idea goes back to the early 19th century when light skinned slaves were looked at as smarter, more civilized and better looking because of their “white blood” in addition to being granted more rights. The concept behind this “mulatto hypothesis” contributes to the modern perception that lighter-skinned women are more beautiful and are more desirable.
Skin color is such a complex topic because black skin encapsulates a wide range of tones. The complexity comes in when questions arise on ones’ black identity in relation to skin color or the idea of matching society’s standard of beauty. Much like how there is constructiveness surrounding the idea of an authentic black identity, one’s skin color is often perceived as one of the largest determining factor of their cultural background. Unfortunately there are other associations made relating to the black identity such as lighter-skinned people behaving less stereotypically black (whatever that may be) or having traits more desirable for relationship. Subscribing to colorism through the idea that lighter skin is better is a further removal from embracing ones black identity.
Different Perspectives
It is important to note that skin whitening products can be beneficial in controlling skin issues like discoloration, uneven tone, hyperpigmentation, and sun damage. However, in addition to there being unsafe products and health concerns that make the lightening a serious health risk, the majority of people do it for superficial reasons. While men also utilize numerous skin lightening methods, women make up the majority of the demographic using the products. One reason for the increased use of these products can be generally attributed to how women around the globe internalize the messages of beauty that society constantly reinforces to their detriment, negatively impacting their feelings of self-worth. In many cultures, lighter-skinned women receive more opportunities, roles, recognition, and acknowledgement for their work than their darker-skinned contemporaries. They are the appear on more billboards, are the faces of more beauty products, and get more overall media attention. Societal pressures and lack of knowledge on the dangers of creams and procedures are also among the reasons why people lighten their skin.
People that use skin lightening and bleaching methods generally do not see themselves as undergoing a drastic change. Women in interviews discussing the use of skin lightening creams claim to only want a clearer, brighter or different tone of their skin and do not want to be perceived as having low self-esteem or a lack of self-love. Some scholars that views the lack of self-esteem perspective as victim blaming and devaluing the systems of racism and colorism that compels the women to do this. Often times the alterations do not stop at one’s skin, hair texture and eye color changed as well, usually matching Eurocentric beauty standards. This can also be looked at as a creating distance between one’s self and their black culture, identity or background.
HIGH GLOBAL DEMAND
While skin lightening is done all over Africa and the diaspora, the World Health Organization has reported that Nigeria has the highest consumption of bleaching products with 77% of Nigerian women bleach, followed by Togo with 59%, South Africa at 35%, and Mali with 25%. Some of the most popular bleaching creams being Olay, Natural White, Ambi Fade Cream and Clean & Clear Fairness Cream. The WHO reports skin lightening as a health concern because mercury and hydroquinone active ingredients in many skin lightening soaps and creams. Can cause skin rashes, scarring, bacterial infections, skin deformation, nervous systems damage, psychosis and depression. Due to the health risks, bleaching creams are not approved by the nation’s Food and Drug Administrations but it it still smuggled in due to high demand. Any creams containing mercury, hydroquinone and cortisone above particular levels are banned in Cote D’Ivoire, Kenya, South Africa, Tanzania, Ghana, the United States, in member states of the European Union and many more countries around the globe.
The high demand and widespread use of these products have not stopped sellers from smuggling the products across borders. Cosmetologists in many countries tend to make more money from whitening products than cocoa butter. In 2009, over $432 million dollars’ worth of skin whitening products were used, with exponential increases since. Now with popular brands such as L’Oréal, Garnier, Neutrogena and Dove creating their own formulas, skin whitening has grown into a $20 billion dollar industry. Researchers of Global Industry Analysts project it to be a $31 billion dollar business by 2024.
The Other Side of the Spectrum: Skin Darkening
In the current wave of reclaiming Africanisms is a cultural shift towards reaffirming the beauty in blackness through self-love. The resurgence of beauty being inclusive of darker skinned people continues to be pushed by artists, movie stars, writers, athletes, and content creators. The celebration of black culture in popular media continues to influence beauty and fashion on many levels. Creatives, influencers and many others aware of the consequences surrounding this issue continue to put in the work for the change they want to see in the world. One instance is of Black filmmakers Channsin Berry and Bill Duke creating the documentary “Dark Girls” to raise more awareness and discussion regarding colorism and Black bodies.
Ironically within the embrace of beauty in Black bodies, there are white women pursuing methods to appear darker and have more afrocentric features. The main reason it is being done is because Black and Mixed people are receiving more attention in public, online and in mainstream media. This trend has become so widespread amongst social media influencers that it has been termed “blackfishing”, which can be considered the greatest form of physical appropriation of the black identity. Even though this is an ongoing, influencers following this trend are being called out, having their platforms taken down and are facing more and more receive backlash for their actions. While skin darkening is not a new phenomenon, the degree that people are taking it these days is unprecedented.
Lupita Nyong’o, Gabrielle Union, Tika Sumpter, Janelle Monae and many more women are speaking up against colorism and fairer skin being the benchmark for beauty. The fight has been and continues to be against ads such as the one Nivea released in 2017 that showcased lighter-skinned women expressing that their lighter skin made them look younger and therefore more beautiful. In an attempt to tap into a large market, the ad primarily aired in Senegal, Ghana, and Cameroon. Omowunmi Akinnifesi, winner of the 2005 Most Beautiful Girl in Nigeria pageant and one of the leading figures in the country’s fashion modeling industry, was featured in the ad promoting this skin lightening cream. Her involvement further added to the controversy because it was perceived by many people (especially those that looked up to her) that her not being too fair skinned or too dark skinned, that promoting the cream implied that having fairer/lighter skin is better.
Nivea, like many other corporations profiting from skin care products, release statements claiming that their intention was to protect the skin from long-term sun damage and premature skin-ageing in addition to maintaining an even skin tone. The companies continue to highlight that it is every consumer’s right to choose products according to their personal preferences. Despite the PR the multinational corporations profiting from this create, there is still pushback. Organized protests have also been occurring for years such as the Senegal All White cream of 2012, resulting in the Ministry of Health having the campaign prohibited. The efforts of many influencers and celebrities pushing back against these trends continue to inspire others into action and helps others embrace themselves and self-love.
Lupita Nyong’o, actress, writer, filmmaker, and People’s Magazine most beautiful woman of 2014 received a letter from one fan that touched her.
The letter read, “I think you’re really lucky to be this black but yet this successful in Hollywood overnight. When you appeared on the world map and saved me.”
Lupita publicly responded, “My heart bled a little when I read those words. I could never have guessed that my first job out of school would be so powerful. In and of itself and that it would propel me to be such an image of hope in the same way that the women of The Color Purple were to me. You can’t rely on how you look to sustain you. What actually sustains us, what is fundamentally beautiful, is compassion for yourself, and for those around you, that kind of beauty. beauty inflames the heart. And enchants the soul. [I hope] you will feel the validation of your external beauty, but also, get to the deeper business of being beautiful inside.”
